Diary of a Shopkeeper, 3rd April

Kirkwall BID have dreamed up a new way of entertaining the bairns during the school holidays. In fact, it’s fun for residents and visitors of all ages – and might help you see the town as you’ve never done before.

BID’s events usually take place in the very centre of Kirkwall, because that’s where most businesses are: from the pierhead down Bridge Street and Albert Street, along Broad Street and the length of Victoria Street. There are handy car parks at each end and the spacious kirk green in the middle, which lend themselves to ice rinks, urban beaches, and carousels. But the outer edges of the BID area have much to offer too. So this Easter BID have organised a Toon Treasure Trail, an enjoyable two-mile meander around the outside edge of the town centre. Pick up a map from Kirkness & Gorie or Ortak and get going!

 You can start the circuit anywhere you like, and as you go around there are 21 questions on the back of the map to answer. Mostly they’re for fun, and to point out some interesting sights along the way – but if you get them all correct you could win an iPad. One appropriate place to begin would be outside the Daily Scoop, because there you can read the recently erected information board headed Discovering Hidden Kirkwall. You’ll pass several places mentioned on it during the walk. And while you’re reading it, you’re standing on the mound left by an Iron Age broch, which would have dominated the water’s edge at Broad Street before reclamation pushed the sea back.

Maybe we should rename it Broch Street.

From there, a few steps will take you up Palace Road and right onto the Watergate. “Gate” means “road,” as in the Trongate in Glasgow and various Messigates around Orkney. There once was an impressive archway at the gate’s junction with Palace Road. When was the arch moved? That’s your next question on the Treasure Trail…

As the walk continues you can explore Victoria Lane, which is a bonnie byway most of us would never have reason to visit. At 38 Main Street you might spot the meagre remains of the mysterious Old Castle of Kirkwall. Whizzing past in a car you’d never notice it.

Once safely across Junction Road, the vistas open up along Great Western Road. Not only are there several essential businesses along here, but there’s one of Kirkwall’s most impressive buildings, the Power Station, which opened in 1951, and was the main power supply for Orkney until the sub-sea cable was laid in 1982. Since then it’s been on standby in case of faults with the cable across the firth. It would be a great home for an expanded Orkney Museum, or even an arts centre.

Onwards to the harbour, and many fascinating sights: the 17th century Girnell, the Shipwrecked Mariners’ mine, the metal Meridian Line set into the pavement to mark the achievements of 18th century Orcadian cartographer, Murdoch MacKenzie. Be honest: have you ever noticed that before? I know I hadn’t until I took the Toon Trail.

Heading back inland we pass Kirkwall’s oldest house (probably), before turning south towards the leafy avenues of Willowburn Road and The Willows. Sneaking up on the OIC from the rear via Mill Street, we might circle the whole building before spotting the plaque recording the visit of a distinguished Prime Minister and Poet Laureate. (And it wasn’t Boris Johnson and Simon Armitage.)

After that you’re on the home straight, passing two palaces – twice as many as all of Edinburgh – and ending up back where you started. Time to reward yourself with an ice cream or hot chocolate: my kind of treasure!

The Toon Treasure Trail photos are brought to you by Duncan (BID Chair), Laura (BID Manager) and Valentine (BID-at-heart moviemaker.) Sally (BID Admin) was COVID+ and missed the selfie (Duncan only half missed it.)

More details and a digital map are on BID’s website: Toon Treasure Trail 

This diary appeared in The Orcadian on 6th April. A new one appears weekly. I post them in this blog a few days after each newspaper appearance, with added illustrations., and occasional small corrections or additions.