Diary of a Shopkeeper, 17th July
The idea of a steak pie in a tin is quite a strange one, but nonetheless it made the brand name Fray Bentos famous around the world. It’s the kind of thing that seemed futuristic in the seventies and eighties: a traditional dish packaged so it would last forever. The kind of food a Scottish astronaut would take to the International Space Station.
Now, without having changed a bit, it seems old fashioned rather than futuristic. Actually, there has been one change: it really is a Scottish product now. Since 2013 the brand has been owned by Baxters, and made at their factory in Fochabers.
But the origins of Fray Bentos are a long way from Moray, across the Atlantic and down a bit: in Uruguay. It was there in 1873 that a factory was set up to process the cattle of the pampas into corned beef, Oxo cubes and eventually tinned meat pies. The name originated there too: Fray Bentos is the port city where the processing factory was based, and from where millions of tins were shipped around the world.
My excitement about Uruguay is not really based on pies. It is, surprise surprise, all about wine. Chile has been producing popular, high-quality wines for years. Argentina is home to the best Malbec in the world. So why shouldn’t their neighbour Uruguay shine? It has, after all, a similar history of settlement by Spanish colonists, musket in one hand, vine cuttings in the other.
It feels like the country’s time has come at last. Much improved winemaking techniques, combined with our enthusiasm for new sources of good wine beyond the old (and often expensive) favourites, mean that Uruguay can finally make its mark. And what kind of mark will that be? Initially, at least, it’s likely to be a deep red mark. For as Argentina gained recognition thanks to Malbec, Uruguay is doing so through another obscure French grape, Tannat.
In its homeland, Tannat is found in several small and obscure wine appellations in the Pyrenees: Madiran, Irouléguy, Tursan. If it’s known at all, it’s for producing fantastically tannic wines that dry your cheeks and stain your teeth. Don’t drink it without a hearty plate of cassoulet to soothe its savage soul. In Uruguay, a lusher, more approachable style has developed. Dark fruit is to the fore, often enhanced by a distinct sweet creaminess, from ageing in American oak barrels. In this respect, these Tannats are reminiscent of good Rioja.
That there should be some Spanish style in Uruguayan wine is no surprise given the countries’ interlinked histories. Indeed, the best white wine from the country I’ve encountered is made from the Albariño grape, which originates in Galicia in north-west Spain. While Tannats tend to be rich and full-bodied, Albariño is almost always zingy and limey, making it a great match for seafood. Wineries here tend to be located close to the southern coast, in regions such as Canelones and Maldonado. They’re ideally placed to make wine to match the fish from the Atlantic in front of them, as well as beef from the rolling grasslands at their back doors. Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Malbec do well here, as does a particularly obscure grape called Marselan, which produces light but fruity reds reminiscent of Beaujolais – well worth a try.
But it’s Tannat that will remain Uruguay’s calling card for the foreseeable future. It’s a wine that is both immediately enjoyable and very distinctive. You can also enjoy it with a wide range of foods, from cheese to roast chicken.
It really shows its best, though, with something rich and meaty. Like a Fray Bentos tinned steak pie.
Some Uruguayan wines to explore…
Mayúsculas, Tannat Carbonic Maceration, 2020 is a good place to start your exploration of Uruguayan Tannat, even though it’s not exactly typical. It’s made using the carbonic maceration method often used in Beaujolais, which produces soft, juicy, aromatic reds. As an experiment in taming Tannat’s wild tannins, it’s a great success. There’s a touch of cherryish sweetness to it, making it good to drink by itself as well as with many light to medium flavoured dishes. £17.99.
Vuelt al Mundo, Tannat - Cabernet Franc, 2020 is a 50/50 blend results in a classic red with medium to full body, aromas of blackcurrants and leather, and good balance on the palate: fruit, acidity for freshness, and enough tannins to make it a good match for lamb chops or roasted vegetables. £16.99. (We also stock their straight unblended Tannat which is less memorable, but worth a try.)
Vuelt al Mundo, Sauvignon Blanc, 2021 does not explode out of your glass like some NZ Sauv Blancs. Its initial impression is more reserved, but in the mouth it opens up beautifully, showing attractive peach, apricot and even tropical fruit flavours. Serve chilled as an aperitif, with crab, or creamy curries. £16.99
Mayúsculas, Marselan, 2020 - another unusual wine from Mayúsculas, made using the very rare Marselan grape, a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. Amazingly bright purple in the glass; an attractive aroma of raspberry and cherry fruit gums; on the palate it’s juicy, ripe, low in tannin, very fruity. Drink by itself or with chicken and other white meats. Would be good with mild cheese too. Recommended! £17.99.
Pizzorno, Tannat Reserva, 2018 is a big step up in ambition and quality. Pizzorno’s best grapes go into this, and are macerated for a lengthy period to extract aroma, colour and tannin from the skins. It’s aged in American oak barrels for 12 months, which overlays the wild berry aromas already there with a beautiful sweet-vanilla layer. Except it’s not a case of separate layers: everything comes together into a wonderful, harmonious whole. More tannic than any of these others, though still more elegant than most French Tannats; still, it will show its best with grilled or roasted meat, or strong cheese. Highly recommended. £24.99.
Coming soon… All of the above wines originate in the Canelones region. In the next few weeks we expect the arrival of some exciting new wines from the smaller but highly rated Maldonado area, a little to the east. As well as a Tannat (of course!) we will be stocking an Albariño and a Viognier.
This diary appeared in The Orcadian on 20th July 2022. A new one appears weekly. I post them in this blog a few days after each newspaper appearance, with added illustrations., and occasional small corrections or additions.